22 Aug
Diamond Education

A Complete Guide to Diamond Color and Grading

Before you start shopping, it becomes important to understand the 4Cs especially the color of the diamond. Even in a clear diamond, there are a few traces of color within its crystal structures. Most diamonds include nitrogen as the common trace element. When nitrogen atoms replace 1 out of every 10,000 carbon atoms, the diamond picks up a slight yellow tint.

The color darkens when the nitrogen concentration rises to 10 in 10,000 atoms. Similarly, Boron’s traces are responsible for some blue diamonds. So, a diamond’s color, though it may not get as much attention as its carat or cut does, but has a significant impact on its price and value.

What is the diamond color scale?
The diamond color scale was created in order to categorize diamonds based on their color quality, which is determined by their clarity. In general, the less color a diamond has, the higher is its value. Colored diamonds, such as pink and blue diamonds are exceptions to this and are not included in the diamond grading system devised by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) since they are not considered to be of gem quality.

Using the GIA diamond color grading method, you can determine whether a diamond is slightly colorless or has no color at all. Diamonds with a yellow or brown tint have a poorer color grade and are therefore less valuable in the form of jewelry. Furthermore, in order to determine a diamond’s color grade, an expert compares the diamond to a reference stone having the same color grade under controlled and standardized lighting conditions.

Understanding the diamond color scale

In order to assess a diamond’s color grade, each stone is compared to a master set. Each letter grade denotes a different color range and the degree to which a color is noticed.

D, E, F – Colorless
These diamonds are rare and colorless, making them extremely valuable with a price tag to match. If you are looking for colorless, icy white diamonds, paying the extra money is absolutely worth it for those who are willing to possess them.

G, H, I, J – Near Colorless
A skilled gemologist can notice a little yellow undertone. G and H diamonds, on the other hand, only have a slight tint that is nearly invisible to the naked eye. I and J diamonds have a noticeable tint when compared to diamonds of higher color grades.

Diamonds in this price range are a great option for people who seek a unique look in their jewelry.

K, L, M – Faint
Even without comparing to a higher color grade diamond, the presence of yellow color can clearly be seen by the naked eye. Diamonds less than K quality can be made available from Martin Flyer upon request.

N-R – Very Light
This range of colors comes with low quality that can be identified by an untrained eye due to its distinct yellow color.

S-Z – Light
This range is not much in demand as they come with a brown tint.

How to read the GIA scale for diamond color
Starting with D, the highest grade, the GIA scale progresses down alphabetically to Z, the lowest grade. The reason it starts at D is due to a competing system that was already using an alphabetic scale at the time of the GIA system’s induction. As a result, the GIA determined that the new scale will begin with D and go all the way to Z in order to distinguish it from the existing system.

What does it mean if a diamond is graded at Z?
Even if you’re not an expert, you can tell the difference between a D and a Z color diamond. On the other hand, the untrained eye cannot identify the difference between y and Z color diamond. Some people mistake a “fancy diamond” for a diamond with a GIA color grading of Z because of the diamond’s distinct yellow or brownish tint.

Diamonds with a darker yellow or brown color aren’t included on the GIA color scale just like the extremely rare pink and blue diamonds. A faint yellow or slightly brown color is present in Z-grade diamonds, but they are still transplanted. Dark yellow and dark brown diamonds have a more vivid color than the GIA scale allows, making them more valuable than an average diamond.

The grading system for colored diamonds
Diamonds can be colored in a variety of ways. However, they typically fall into the range of 200-300 shades. When it comes to grading colored diamonds, there are three things to keep in mind which are base color, intensity, and secondary colors.

Base colors
Diamonds come in a variety of 12 colors including red, yellow, orange, green, blue, pink, purple, brown, violet, and gray. Aside from these, diamonds are available in black and white colors as well. They all fall under this base category. It is also crucial to consider the variations in these colors. There is a big difference in the appearance of a deep red diamond and a vibrant red diamond.

Intensity of Color

The intensity of a diamond’s color can be used to further categorize it into nine levels. This ranges from faint to fancy vivid. Fancy intense, fancy deep, fancy dark, fancy, fancy light, light, and very light are the intermediate levels. Several colored diamonds aren’t available in all color intensities. For example, there are no faint, light, or extremely light red diamonds. Likewise, there are no light yellow ones.

Secondary colors
Color diamonds are so diverse that they can’t be characterized in terms of a single color. They are sometimes referred to as a mix of two colors such as orange-red and purple-pink diamonds. Sometimes, a diamond can be described as a three-colored gemstone such as a yellowish-grey-green diamond. The grey-green diamond shows a faint tint of yellow in this instance. If you pay attention, you will notice that the dominant color is frequently the final thing to be discussed. For instance, when describing a blue-green diamond, green is the most dominant color to be discussed.

Diamond Color for Fancy Shapes
The proportions and faceting patterns of distinct diamond shapes also affect the diamond color. Because of this, some shapes are more likely to display their body color than others.

The round cut diamond is least prone to display the body color. It is more common in Princess, Emerald, and Asscher cut diamonds. Therefore, it’s best to go a grade higher than the standard grade for round diamonds.

All the other diamond shapes especially the elongated ones like oval, marquise, and pear cut diamonds are even more prone to body color. Color may be visible at the pointed tips of these shapes. So, you’d have to pick a higher grade.

Diamond color for larger diamonds
Color’s effect on large diamonds should also be taken into consideration. The body color of a diamond is more apparent in larger stones than smaller ones. To compare a 3-carat and a 0.5-carat diamond of the same color, you will see that the smaller diamond is more clear and transparent. You might also consider choosing a higher color grade if you buy a larger diamond (from 2-carat upwards).

Diamond color fluorescence
Fluorescence can be found in some diamonds. It’s always noted in the grade report, no matter what degree it would be.

If you are on a budget and looking for a diamond in the I-K color range, consider purchasing a diamond with medium or strong blue fluorescence.

Buying a diamond with fluorescence is neither good nor bad, however, most consumers like to buy a diamond without fluorescence as they think that it will make diamonds look hazy which is considered a “defect”. On the other hand, some consumers prefer diamonds with fluorescence because they cost a lot less. This is due to the fact that a blue fluorescence diamond cancels out yellowish tints in sunlight that makes it whiter than the colorless one that draws the attention of a consumer.

What color-grade diamond should I get?
It is difficult to tell the difference between color grades that are close to each other on the diamond color scale. With increasing carat weight, any blemishes or lower color grades in the diamond become more visible. For a diamond over a carat, the best value is usually found in a G-H color diamond.

The color grades I to J are appropriate if your diamond weighs less than one carat. There are fewer color differences in smaller diamonds. Also, keep in mind that the metal of the ring setting will reflect some of the diamond’s colors. Yellow gold, on the other hand, enhances the color of a diamond that is already yellow.

Your diamond’s shape and cut determine how much of the stone’s underlying color is visible. In order to keep the color of the metal from affecting the quality of your diamond, round, princess, and other modified brilliant diamonds are the ideal choices. To buy a custom selection from the diamond color scale, contact your local Authorized Martin Flyer Retailer today.

Summary
The color grading is very important to understand when you are buying a diamond for your special day. There are minor differences between gemological grades on the color scale. Colorless diamonds are icy white whereas the near-colorless diamonds do not reveal any body color. An ideal cut diamond looks whiter and its color is more visible from the side where the influence of light return does not impact your perception of color.

Everyone has a different sense in terms of color so they buy what they like the most. Most shoppers find their ‘best for the buck’ in the near-colorless range (GHIJ). However, there are those that only want colorless and those that actually prefer diamonds with a bit of warmth.

14 Jul
Diamond Education

Guide to Diamond Shapes

A diamond’s shape makes it unique and distinguishable. Each shape portrays distinct characteristics as well as different features of a diamond. They are cut in a variety of shapes that double the brilliance of a diamond. Round brilliant cuts are highly admired in the world due to their unrivaled fire and brilliance. There are two distinct aspects to the shape and cutting process of a diamond: the external look and how many facets the stone has.

Diamond cut and diamond shapes: The difference

When buying a diamond, it becomes essential to understand the difference between a diamond shape and a diamond cut that will help you to choose the best diamond for your jewelry or engagement ring.

Shape

The diamond shape refers to the diamond’s outline shape when you look at it from the top down. Round, Oval, Princess, Emerald, Cushion, Heart, Marquise, Asscher, Pear, Trapeze, and Baguette are all shapes referred to as “fancy shapes,” and these diamonds, as well as gemstones, are used in a range of different styles of jewelry. When selecting your ideal diamond shape, it will also help you to consider: the type of ring you want, your and your partner’s finger shape, or just a design you like.

Cut

As opposed to the diamond’s shape, the cut is a measure of how proportioned and symmetrical the diamond appears.

As a result, the amount of light emitted by the diamond will influence how much it sparkles. Brilliance, fire, and scintillation are all terms used to describe different types of light reflections.

Martin Flyer offers the 6 most popular diamond shapes which are certified by GIA. Learn more about each shape below.

The Most Popular Diamonds Shapes

1. Round Brilliant Diamond

When compared to other diamond shapes, the history of the round-cut diamond is a little different. It took decades to achieve and perfect this kind of diamond cutting, which is currently incredibly popular in today’s market. It was the jewelers’ attempt to find a natural diamond with the greatest number of facets and the greatest amount of shine. This diamond is ideal if you want to flaunt your trendy, sophisticated, and classy side while yet remaining affordable. Despite the fact that there are numerous other types of cuts available today, the most popular cuts have been used to manufacture engagement rings and other jewelry for a long time. Currently, the brilliant-cut is the most popular shape for round diamonds because it has more facets and angles than the previous diamonds, which were cut with wider, more open facets while they were still in the ground.

The round brilliant cut diamond has a total of 58 facets that are divided into three sections: the crown (top), the girdle (widest part), and the pavilion (base). The round brilliant cut diamond’s fire and brilliance are calibrated using a precise formula in order to produce the most fire and brilliance possible. When cutting a rough stone in order to shape a round diamond, more material is removed than is needed, which is why the cost of each carat becomes higher. Round brilliant diamonds account for the vast majority of diamonds currently in existence. Martin Flyer offers the most sought-after diamond shapes in the world for engagement rings, necklaces, earrings, and bracelets, as well as other jewelry items.

2. Oval Shaped Diamond

The Oval cut diamond, which is simply an enlarged round brilliant cut diamond, was created in the mid-1900s and has been in use ever since. Despite the fact that oval diamonds have the same brilliance as round diamonds, their distinctive shape sets them apart. This is a popular diamond’s shape because it seems larger than a round diamond of the same carat weight, which makes it more valuable. At Martin Flyer, the oval diamond’s shape is extremely attractive because it can make one’s fingers appear longer and thinner.

 Because an oval diamond can elongate your hands, any ring that has this diamond shape will have an air of sophistication about it. The oval diamond is fragile as it has rounded edges. In contrast to the sharp points of the marquise cut, oval diamonds add a delicate touch to the length of this stone. Choosing the right diamond color for this sort of stone is a little more difficult. It is required to increase the color grade in order to ensure that the ends seem colorless, as the rounded ends tend to reveal more color than a round diamond would otherwise.

3. Pear Shaped Diamond

A pear-shaped diamond engagement ring is a popular choice among ladies who appreciate its unique appearance. Pear-shaped diamonds can be used in a variety of settings, including engagement rings. A pear-shaped diamond is crafted just like a teardrop, but with a flatter and bigger bottom and a thin point at the top of the diamond, just like a teardrop.

Its teardrop-shaped design is distinctly memorable. Ring with a pear-shaped design can be worn in either an upwards or downwards orientation, depending on how you want it to look. Since it has been faceted, inclusions are often obscured by the point, which makes them less obvious. Pears that are longer in length have a slimming effect on the fingers. The optimal cutting ratio is between 1.5 and 1.7. At the diamond’s tip, there are several flaws and extra facets can be found. To avoid chipping, at the tip, there should always be a prong.

4. Emerald Shaped Diamond

Emerald-cut diamonds were among the first diamond cuts to be discovered in the world. In spite of this, due to their resemblance to other diamond-cutting procedures, they did not become standardized until 1940. Because colored gemstones and high-quality diamonds both look amazing in the emerald cut. Don’t save on the diamond quality if you opt for this style of engagement ring design.

Emeralds are known for their symmetrical shine, which makes them stand out among other gemstones. The emerald diamond cut is a symbol of unity since it is properly proportioned and enhances the diamond’s brilliant brilliance. Because of its tiered faceting, the emerald cut is often referred to as a “step cut.” In total, the diamond has roughly 25 crowns, 25 pavilions, and 8 girdle facets, each with three rows of bottom steps and three rows of upper steps. Given that an open setting allows for a greater view of the color of a diamond, bezel or closed settings are favored when the diamond has a lower color quality.

5. Elongated Cushion Cut Diamonds and Radiant Cut Diamonds

Making the right choice for the diamond’s shape is essential since it has an impact on the overall appearance and beauty of the ring. If the more common diamond shapes do not appeal to you, other cuts like an elongated cushion or radiant cut diamonds are popular alternatives. Martin Flyer works closely with their Authorized Retailers to provide you with a variety of diamond cuts to suit your style. Our FlyerFit® engagement rings are available through our Authorized Retailers in a range of styles, including Micropavé, Split Shank, Three Stone, and Encore.

6. Promise Cut™ Diamond

A promise cut ring symbolizes a long-term commitment to your special one. It is the most appropriate way to convey your real and genuine love and care for your mate. In making this commitment to each other, you and your spouse have made a commitment that you will never let go of each other no matter what happens in your lives. Promise Cut™ ring is a symbol of your promise to be faithful to your love and the beginning of a long-lasting relationship.

The Promise Cut™ is a specialty diamond cut by Martin Flyer that allows an increased surface area of the cushion cut diamond without increasing the weight. At a reasonable price, the diamond appears larger, giving it a more impressive appearance.

Choose a ring that is appropriate for you and that complements your personality. The brilliance of a diamond in an engagement ring is directly related to the quality of the diamond; therefore, a more brilliant cut diamond means a more expensive ring.

Visit one of our Authorized Retailers and select your favorite ring style, then purchase and put it on your finger! All our diamonds are GIA certified.

With a little research and the assistance of your local Authorized Martin Flyer Retailer, selecting the right diamond shape can be done more easily. Here’s hoping you find that perfect diamond for your loved ones!

08 Jul
Diamond Education

Diamond Carat & Clarity and Buying Tips

Not everyone who wants to buy a diamond engagement ring knows everything about diamonds. It is wise to take a note of the important 4Cs: cut, color, clarity, and carat weight. Out of the 4Cs, it is only the carat weight that many people pay close attention to. But did you know that Carat weight and size are related, but they are not the same thing? Two identical stones of the same size and carat weight can look completely different depending on the cut. This blog will explore more on that aspects for a better and clearer buying experience.

The importance of a Diamond Carat

A diamond’s carat weight is largely a matter of personal preference, but it has a direct impact on the price of the stone. Of the 4Cs, the carat weight is often the most important factor in determining price. The weight of a diamond is measured in carats, and a metric carat is equal to 200 milligrams.

The carat weight of a diamond is only as crucial as you need it to be. Carat weight is an important consideration if a large stone is a top priority for you. People who don’t believe that a larger stone is important may consider other characteristics of the diamond than its carat weight.

Carat Influences the cost of a Diamond

If all other factors of the 4Cs are equal (cut, clarity, and color), the price of a diamond will rise as the carat weight increases. When it comes to diamonds, for many, the size matters. The larger the diamond, the more sought-after and even rarer. The latest trend shows it. However, the other three Cs can have a significant impact on the value of two identically sized diamonds.

To put it another way, the carat weight of a diamond is an important factor in determining its price, but it is not the only one. Even if a diamond is large in carat weight, its value will plummet if its clarity and color aren’t up to snuff.

Carat Influences the size of a Diamond

When it comes to understanding the carat weights, many people will believe that the carat weight is equal to the diamond’s size. The diamond’s weight is measured in carats, but the cut has a greater impact on the stone’s overall size than the carat weight.

In comparison to a smaller diamond of the same carat weight and perfect cut, a higher-carat diamond with a poor cut may appear smaller. In other words, a one-carat round diamond is not half the size of a two-carat round diamond. If the diameter of a one-carat round is 6.4mm, the diameter of a two-carat round would be 8mm.

A diamond clarity is the second most crucial of the 4Cs, affecting both its visual appearance and its long-term viability.

Inclusions: There are two distinct types of flaws that affect the clarity of a diamond; inclusions (also known as internal characteristics) and blemishes (also known as external characteristics). Because of their inclusions and blemishes, diamonds with low clarity grades are more prone to cracking and chipping.

Diamonds naturally contain a variety of inclusions, such as pressure cracks, bubbles, and small mineral deposits, which are the most common. Chips, scratches, and pits form during the cutting or polishing of a diamond and are the most common causes of blemishes.

People going diamond shopping may find it difficult to judge the diamond’s clarity.

Professional gemologists use a 10x magnification to examine a diamond’s clarity for blemishes and inclusions.

Clarity of a Diamond

As we know, diamonds are carbon-based. We have the most concentrated form of carbon available to us. The formation of a natural diamond takes millions of years as a result of the extreme heat and pressure faced by the diamond in the Earth’s mantle.

Flaws or imperfections are common in most naturally occurring diamonds. The term “blemishes” (as stated above), refers to a variety of scratches and inclusions visible on the diamond’s surface.

During the process of its formation, inclusions are internal features that are stuck in the material. Natural blemishes are the scratches and inclusions on diamonds.

These characteristics distinguish these gemstones from others. Diamonds are extremely rare to come across in an ideal state. This makes them extremely pricey.

So what is the connection between blemishes, inclusions, and a diamond’s clarity? In layman’s terms, the clarity of a diamond refers to its cleanness. It is a metric used to grade a diamond’s visual appearance.

Flaws, Clarity, and Price

While buying a piece of jewelry, remember that clarity is inversely proportional to flaws. So the higher the diamond’s clarity grade, the fewer inclusions it will have. The clarity of the stone impacts the value of a diamond. A diamond with a higher clarity would be more expensive than one with lower clarity, even if they are of the same cut, carat weight, and color. Truly, most imperfections and flaws cannot be seen with the naked eye.

The clarity of a diamond is affected by a variety of factors. The inclusion’s quantity, color, and size are all important considerations. Depending on how visible the inclusion is, the clarity may also change. Similarly, a diamond’s clarity is also determined by the location from where it was sourced.

Understanding the Diamond Clarity Chart

Each diamond is a one-of-a-kind creation. Their flaws, on the other hand, are a common occurrence. Magnifications up to 10x are used by gemologists to inspect diamonds because the flaws are so tiny. They do this while keeping the diamond in a face-up direction. The clarity grade cannot be determined if any blemish or inclusion is not visible when looking at the diamond from the top. Consequently, experts use loupes or microscopes to examine the inclusions’ sizes and shapes.

Using a 10x magnification, experienced graders can discern various aspects of clarity. The locations of the inclusions are mapped by skilled graders and are referred to as “plots.” They help in determining the value of each stone. Since the internal pattern of each diamond is unique, as a result, no two diamonds are the same. Plots of diamonds are like fingerprints, allowing us to identify each unique diamond.

A diamond clarity chart is used by gemologists to grade the results of the analysis. The following are the different grades and their characteristics:

What Clarity Rating Should You Choose?

There are a few things to keep in mind when looking for a stone with the appropriate clarity rating. Are you looking for a diamond that has no inclusions? Would you be able to accept a small amount in your diamond? Then an FL-IF grade or any VVS grade diamond would be your best pick. But keep in mind that a high-quality diamond of that grade will also come with the highest price tag.

VS-quality diamonds (high-quality stones) don’t cost as much as those with a premium clarity rating. However, if you’re on a budget, an SI-rated diamond is a good option. In that case, you must make sure that the inclusions are not obvious. Choose an SI3 or I1 diamond if you want a larger carat weight for a lower price.

When you’re buying a diamond, be sure to look at the stone’s flaws and inclusions.

Inclusions closer to the side facets have less impact on the visual appearance than inclusions in the center.

How to Buy a Diamond Without Making the Clarity Mistake

It’s easy to make mistakes when purchasing a diamond. A diamond with an extremely high clarity grade is seen as a good investment. Choose the level of clarity that best meets your requirements. Do not buy a flawless diamond simply because you like the way it appears. Tiny flaws that are barely noticeable can be found in many more affordable stones. The physical beauty and worth of a diamond are unaffected by such tiny flaws. Take a decision that will benefit you in the long run.

As a result, the next time you’re looking to buy a diamond ring or other jewelry, don’t simply go for the most eye-catching one you can find. You must inquire about the clarity of stones used in the jewelry and make sure to check the clarity chart before making any decision.

Happy shopping!